Oh, Edinburgh. I did not know how much I would come to adore this city. It was the midway point for our holiday to Dublin and London, and it was more planned for tasting scotch and haggis. But then, as the train pulled into the station and we climbed a mountain’s worth of stairs, we came to view this beautiful city and fell in love. Edinburgh is a history lover’s dream, the old city is surrounded by significant parts of the Scottish past and the city caters to those who wish to learn all about it. I was also amazed by just how much green space there was in and about Edinburgh. Gardens and parks are littered throughout the city and provide a great contrast to all of the old stone buildings and walkways.

Airbnb recommendation: Old Town Hidden Castle Gem

Day 1: A bit of politics and a bit of scotch

I would recommend starting your day with a traditional Scottish breakfast. Mum and I ended up at Breakfast, Brunch and Lunch (at 65 Pleasance), this adorable little streetside cafe who caters mostly to University of Edinburgh students, but we had an incredibly delicious full Scottish breakfast. It’s in the Holyrood district which has some great cafes and my favorite Scottish bakery (Pinnies and Poppy Seeds) and for those of you who are more politically minded, the queen’s residence is on the edge of this district next to the Scottish Parliament. You can tour the Scottish Parliament Monday through Saturday from 10-4, if you want to take a guided tour, you can sign up here. For those of you who are less politically inclined, there is a fantastic hike located in the same area. The hike to Arthur’s Seat starts in Holyrood Park. It’s an approximately 3 mile hike that should take about 2 hours to complete, there is a bit of rugged terrain, so I’d recommend wearing sturdier shoes for this hike. After you’ve finished your hike or tour, take some time to enjoy some local pub fare. There’s a great pub in Holyrood on the way back down the Royal Mile called The Holyrood 9A, stop in for a bite and a pint before heading into Old Town.

If you are a scotch drinker, there are two fantastic ways to spend this afternoon. You can either visit the Glenkinchie distillery which is just a half hour outside of Edinburgh or do a scotch tasting at the Whiski Rooms. Mum and I did the distillery tour and had such a lovely time. The folks at Glenkinchie are very knowledgable about their process and very passionate about whiskey making. The distillery tour taught us a lot about both the science and art of making a fine scotch. They offer a shuttle service twice a day from the city for those who would like to tour their facility and taste their products. You can find out more about their facilities and tours here. If you prefer not to leave the city, Whiski Rooms (at 4-7 North Bank Street) has a great selection of scotch whiskies and offers tasting flights with one of the best views of Princes Street Gardens. Once you’ve had your fill of scotch for the day, head down Bank Street to the Cellar Door for supper. The Cellar Door offers a gourmet take on traditional Scottish food. It’s a small, quiet restaurant that’s midway between fast casual and high end, so you should feel comfortable dining there in your touristing jeans and trainers. I would highly recommend the North Atlantic beer battered haddock, it’s a tastier, fattier white fish that adds that much more deliciosity to traditional fish and chips. If you’re looking to knock a few pints back, there’s a pub just down the road called Greyfriars Bobby that’s been about since the mid 19th century that’s worth popping into if you’re so inclined.

Day Two: Old City, Old Sights

We’ll start our second day in Grassmarket, at the very bottom of the castle grounds. There’s a great breakfast place called La Barantine Victoria that does a fantastic latte and it’s not far off our first stop for the day. For those of you who either are really into history (particularly the drama of succession of the British crown following Henry VIII and Elizabeth I) or love well done museums, the National Museum of Scotland is a must see while in Edinburgh. It’s a very large museum spanning two connected buildings (the National Museum and the Royal Museum) that covers the history of Scotland and contains so many fascinating collections of artifacts. It is a large museum, but the collections are well curated to prevent boredom or fatigue. For when you’re ready for a break for lunch, The Elephant House (yes, the cafe where JK Rowling wrote Harry Potter) is just round the corner from the museum and has a great selection of midday bites and coffees. Their prices are very reasonable and it isn’t often terribly crowded, and they have a children’s menu that even the fussiest eater could find something they like on.

Once you’ve had your fill from lunch, head down to Princes Street. There are two great museum options that flank either side of the gardens. Before heading to either, take a leisurely stroll along the gardens and check out the Scott Monument (it’s a large black structure you aren’t likely to miss if you’re in the gardens facing Princes Street). 287 steps up the monument that honors Scottish author Sir Walter Scott will give you one of the best views of the city. It’s well worth the trek if you don’t plan on schlepping out to Calton Hill. If you’re feeling up to taking in a bit of art, I highly recommend the Scottish National Gallery. They had a fantastic impressionism exhibit on when I was there and their permanent collection is fairly impressive. If you’d rather make it a full history binge, you can make your way toward the Castle to check out the National War Museum. Though hardly all-encompassing of Scottish military history (it only starts with the 17th century), it’s done in a similar fashion to the Imperial War Museum in London and is a great museum for military history buffs. It also serves as a great jumping off point for our final destination for the day: Edinburgh Castle.

Arguably the crown jewel of sights in Edinburgh, the Castle sits atop one of the highest hills in all of Edinburgh. Their website is quite comprehensive and even offers sample itineraries depending on how long you’d like to visit for. Things definitely not to miss: The Stone of Destiny, St. Margaret’s Chapel and the panoramic views of the city from the north battlements. You can take the steps all the way down from the Castle to Grassmarket if you’d like to end your night at a pub there. My mum and I thoroughly enjoyed the fare at The White Hart, which has been in business since 1740, and is reportedly one of the most haunted pubs in all of Edinburgh.

Day Three: A Whole Lotta History

Today will be quite a bit of walking, so make sure to fuel up with a good breakfast and a strong coffee. I recommend Cafe on the Mound, as it’s well loved by locals and it’s in close proximity to where we’ll start the day. Once you’ve finished your meal, head down to St. Giles Cathedral (pictured below). Known for it’s intricately designed crown spire, it’s also the original church for the city of Edinburgh. It’s free to explore the chapel and look at the lovely stained glass, and if you happen to be in Edinburgh in the summer, there are £6 per person rooftop tours. Normally I’m of a mind to avoid overly-touristy areas, but there’s one that I’ll make an exception for in Edinburgh only because it’s so well done. Just beyond St. Giles Cathedral is the unassuming entrance to “The Real Mary King’s Close.” It’s definitely a bit kitschy, but having been thoroughly researched and preserved and having fantastic actors definitely makes this a worthy stop along your Edinburgh journey. A guide actor will take you on an informative and interactive tour of the very well preserved former streets of Edinburgh. This will transport you back to 17th century Edinburgh and you’ll probably learn a bit more of Edinburgh’s history than you ever know you wanted to. I’d recommend booking your tickets in advance as they fill up quickly in the high travel seasons.

For lunch I’d recommend popping into one of the many cafes and sandwich shops along High Street. If you’re really craving something simple/familiar, there’s a Pret round the corner on North Bridge. Once you’ve had your fill, head across North Bridge and hook a right on Princes Street/A1. Stay on the north side of the street until you get to a set of steps on your left. I will warn you now that this last sight is a bit of an uphill hike and is not for the faint of heart. If you follow the steps, they lead up a steep path that winds its way around until you reach the National Monument of Scotland. Wander about the top of Calton Hill and enjoy the beautiful views of the city, but make sure you stop at the Nelson Monument and the Dugald Stewart Monument to get picture perfect shots. 

Once you’ve had a thorough look over of the views at Calton Hill, treat yourself to a delicious dinner. If you’re still keen on having sweeping city views, you can’t go wrong with Tower Restaurant, but if you’re planning to catch a show in the evening, you really must check out Zucca (they do fabulous Italian fare and have a special pre-theatre menu).

This ends my best advice for spending three days in lowland capital. If I missed something absolutely essential, feel free to send me a note. I’m always open to including new recommendations.